When Haider Ackermann was appointed Creative Director of Tom Ford, the fashion world anticipated an evolution of the brand’s bold sensuality. For Spring/Summer 2026, Ackermann delivered exactly that — a poetic yet powerful expression of desire, crafted through exquisite tailoring, sensual fabrics, and cinematic atmosphere.
This collection marked Ackermann’s second season at the helm, and it demonstrated confidence, focus, and control. Where his debut was exploratory, SS26 is assured — an unapologetic statement of what the new Tom Ford stands for: seductive elegance without excess.
The Vision
Ackermann’s Tom Ford is not about nostalgia; it’s about reinterpretation. The designer channels the brand’s heritage of sex appeal and precision tailoring, yet strips away the overt gloss for something more restrained and modern. The theme is seduction as art — attraction through suggestion, not exposure.
He explores the fine tension between control and temptation, wrapping the body in sheer layers, liquid silks, and glossy vinyls that both conceal and reveal. The result is a visual dialogue between vulnerability and strength — a sophisticated eroticism that feels contemporary, intelligent, and emotionally charged.
The Silhouettes
The runway opened with sharply tailored jackets, narrow pencil skirts, and fluid trousers, all cut to perfection. Ackermann’s signature draping meets Ford’s architectural discipline, creating a dynamic interplay between softness and structure.
Menswear and womenswear shared the same stage — blurring boundaries with a co-ed presentation where both sexes wore translucent shirts, sculpted leather blazers, and languid silk pieces. The androgyny felt effortless, reinforcing a message of confidence and equality through allure.
Dresses were fluid, often bias-cut, hugging the form like water. Trench coats came in vinyl and mesh, giving classic silhouettes a provocative update. Cutouts were strategic, revealing flashes of skin with precision rather than provocation.
Color and Texture
The color palette was hypnotic: deep blacks, stark whites, and metallic silvers contrasted with shots of acid green, Klein blue, blush pink, and soft champagne tones. The interplay of matte and gloss — leather against silk, mesh against velvet — created a tactile richness that caught the light from every angle.
Ackermann’s attention to materiality elevated the collection. Shimmering satins, translucent organza, and high-shine vinyls echoed the Tom Ford legacy while introducing a more poetic sensuality. Each fabric was chosen for how it moved, glowed, and breathed with the body.
The Atmosphere
The show unfolded like a cinematic performance — a darkened space illuminated by soft, moody lighting that evoked the intimacy of a private club at midnight. The models glided through beams of light, their reflections shimmering on the lacquered floor. Every step, every gesture was deliberate, reinforcing the aura of mystery and power.
The music — subtle, emotional, and restrained — underscored the collection’s rhythm. It was less of a spectacle and more of an experience: quiet intensity over loud glamour.
Standout Looks
A deep indigo gown that seemed to flow like ink under the lights captured the essence of the collection — luxurious yet minimal, dramatic yet intimate. Another standout look featured a laser-cut leather trench dress that combined architectural precision with sensual exposure.
For menswear, Ackermann played with unexpected juxtapositions: fluid silk trousers paired with patent jackets, sheer shirts layered under sculptural blazers, and delicate thong straps peeking above tailored pants — subtle nods to vulnerability within strength.
The Evolution of Tom Ford
Ackermann’s SS26 collection honors Tom Ford’s DNA — sleek, seductive, and confident — but reimagines it through his own lens of artistry and restraint. The designer replaces brash glamour with quiet power, crafting looks that seduce through detail, craftsmanship, and emotion rather than overt sexuality.
There’s a renewed focus on gender fluidity, where both men and women share the same visual language of sensual sophistication. It’s a Tom Ford for a new era — less about shock, more about substance.
The Verdict
Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2026 by Haider Ackermann is a masterclass in controlled desire. It proves that sensuality doesn’t need to be loud to be powerful — it can whisper, it can glide, it can linger in the air long after the final look has disappeared backstage.
Ackermann has not only revived the Tom Ford brand; he has elevated it. His interpretation feels timeless yet daring, elegant yet human. The collection celebrates modern seduction — intelligent, fluid, and infinitely refined.
