The Spring/Summer 2026 season marks a bold new chapter for Loewe. With Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler stepping into the role of creative directors, the Spanish heritage house has entered a transitional moment filled with high expectations. This was not simply another runway presentation — it was a debut that sought to define the brand’s future identity, balancing reverence for tradition with the urgency of new ideas.

A Fresh Creative Direction

Loewe has long been celebrated for its leather craftsmanship and artful exploration of form under Jonathan Anderson. The arrival of McCollough and Hernandez signals a pivot. Their vision is grounded in three principles: honoring Spanish heritage, elevating craftsmanship, and infusing the collections with a sense of body, skin, and sensuality. For their debut, the duo created a collection that felt fiery, sun-soaked, and alive with movement.

Inspirations and Visual Language

At the core of the collection was an embrace of geometry, color, and clarity. An Ellsworth Kelly painting set the tone for the show space, underscoring the importance of bold primary hues and clean, graphic compositions. Instead of leaning into ornate or folkloric Spanish references, the designers approached “Spanishness” through energy — the heat of the sun, the rhythm of the body, and the play of light against color.

There were echoes of sportswear and prep culture woven into the designs: polo-style knits, V-neck sweaters, and bomber jackets that were reinterpreted through Loewe’s craftsmanship. Flowing dresses with asymmetric hems suggested movement and freedom, while structured leather pieces offered sculptural contrast.

Materials and Craft

Leather, Loewe’s beating heart, dominated the collection. The material was pushed into unexpected directions: molded into body-conscious mini dresses, hardened into sculptural coats, and softened into jackets that billowed around the body. The tension between rigidity and fluidity created a dialogue throughout the show.

Beyond leather, fabric manipulation brought surprise and texture. Striped maxi dresses, sheer scarf-like gowns, and ruffled layers gave the collection a sense of lightness. Panels of bright color peeked out from under folds, creating moments of discovery as models moved down the runway.

Color, Shape, and Silhouette

Color was perhaps the most striking element of Loewe SS26. Bold primaries — crimson, cobalt, yellow, and emerald — dominated, often presented in blocks or stripes. These hues gave the collection a sense of optimism and joy, far from the muted minimalism seen on other runways this season.

Silhouettes balanced structure with ease. Some looks clung to the body, highlighting form and sensuality, while others released into flowing, airy shapes. Asymmetry played a key role: uneven hems, one-shoulder details, and hidden panels created rhythm and surprise. The collection was about contrast — sharp versus soft, sculpted versus fluid.

Accessories and Details

As always, accessories were a highlight. The new Amazona 180 bag stood out with its asymmetric, single-handle design, meant to slouch in a way that challenged balance and proportion. Shoes included playful loafers with oversized tassels, kitten heels in glossy finishes, and unexpected pairings of socks and sandals. Accessories carried the same mix of seriousness and play that defined the clothes.

The Mood and Impact

The show radiated confidence and optimism. Rather than retreat into quiet luxury, Loewe’s new era embraced vibrancy, sensuality, and fun. There was an ease to many of the pieces, a wearability that felt deliberate. At the same time, the technical precision in leather and construction reminded the audience that Loewe remains a house built on craft.

The collection walked the fine line between art and function. While some sculpted pieces were clearly runway statements, many of the dresses, knits, and separates felt like garments one could imagine in everyday wardrobes. This balance between artistry and accessibility may be one of McCollough and Hernandez’s strongest assets as they redefine Loewe.

Key Looks

• Sculpted leather minis in bold primary colors, molded to the body with a futuristic edge.

• Striped maxi dresses with transparent panels and asymmetric hems, creating drama with ease.

• Billowing leather jackets that redefined what the material can do, alternately rigid and flowing.

• Playful accessories, including the Amazona 180 bag and color-popped loafers.

Looking Ahead

Loewe SS26 is more than a seasonal presentation; it’s a declaration of intent. The collection suggests a future where craft and experimentation coexist, where Spanish heritage inspires without confining, and where color and movement define a new luxury language.

For longtime Loewe followers, this new direction offers continuity in leather craftsmanship but introduces a sense of openness and joy. For new audiences, it signals a brand that feels alive, wearable, and relevant.

This debut makes one thing clear: under McCollough and Hernandez, Loewe is not playing it safe. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection is fiery, tactile, and unapologetically confident — a bold step into the house’s next era.