On October 4, 2025, Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled his inaugural collection for Balenciaga during Paris Fashion Week, marking a significant shift in the house’s creative direction. Departing from Demna’s avant-garde streetwear aesthetic, Piccioli embraced a refined, couture-inspired approach that honored Balenciaga’s storied legacy while introducing a fresh, modern sensibility.
A Tribute to Cristóbal Balenciaga
Piccioli’s collection was deeply rooted in the principles established by Cristóbal Balenciaga, particularly his architectural silhouettes and sculptural forms. The show opened with a contemporary reinterpretation of the 1957 sack dress, featuring a voluminous, cocoon-like shape. Oversized, bug-eye sunglasses added a modern touch while paying homage to Balenciaga’s more recent designs.
The collection also introduced “neo gazar,” a modernized version of the house’s signature gazar fabric. This innovative textile, blending silk and wool, created a softer, more fluid structure, evident in the collection’s jewel-toned gowns and skirts.
A Blend of Elegance and Modernity
Piccioli skillfully integrated elements from Balenciaga’s history with contemporary design. The lineup showcased sweeping gowns, tailored pea coats, and voluminous skirts, all executed with meticulous craftsmanship. These pieces were paired with modern accessories, such as platform flip-flops and futuristic butterfly sunglasses, creating a seamless bridge between past and present.
The color palette was equally striking, featuring rich hues like chartreuse, fuchsia, ochre, and lilac. Rendered in luxurious fabrics, these tones added depth and dimension to the collection, enhancing its visual impact.
Celebrity Presence and Public Reception
The show drew significant attention not only for its design but also for its star-studded front row. Meghan Markle made a notable appearance, wearing a dramatic all-white ensemble from the collection, highlighting her ongoing professional relationship with Piccioli and emphasizing the collection’s contemporary appeal.
Critics widely praised the collection for its balance of respect for Balenciaga’s heritage and innovative design. The garments were celebrated for their emotional sincerity, architectural precision, and retail readiness, signaling a promising future for the brand under Piccioli’s direction.
Conclusion
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Balenciaga represents a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. By honoring the house’s rich history while introducing contemporary elements, Piccioli has charted a bold new course for Balenciaga, one poised to captivate longtime devotees and a new generation of fashion enthusiasts alike.
Another transformation came by way of the reinvented gazar fabric, originally invented by Balenciaga (in collaboration with Gustave Zumsteg) in 1958. The material is comprised of “double-face fabric, woven with two warps and two wefts — two textiles, becoming a single entity,” based with a layer of gauze and reinforced with a softer organza on top. The reimagined material, dubbed “neo gazar” enriches the top layer with lamiset (a blend of silk and wool) — the result adds some softness to the somewhat stiff and structural organza, adding more fluidity to the material. The innovation was prominently displayed on the voluminous jewel-toned dresses and skirts, showing off the fabric’s movement. Yet another example of Piccioli’s reverence for the past while simultaneously looking to the future.
Ahead, see the designer’s romantic new vision for Balenciaga.
