Elie Saab Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture: A Sugary Ode to Marie Antoinette
For Fall/Winter 2025, Elie Saab opened a macaron box of colors, presenting a collection that was both playful and opulent. Titled “The New Court”, the Lebanese designer offered a sugary homage to Marie Antoinette, channeling the spirit of the 18th-century queen through dreamy shades of pinks, pistachio, mint, and meringue.
These vibrant, cookie-inspired hues threaded their way throughout the entire collection, making for a whimsical yet sophisticated feast for the eyes. The color palette immediately evoked a sense of indulgence, decadence, and youthful exuberance. Yet, Saab’s interpretation of these colors was anything but nostalgic. It was a reinvention of Marie Antoinette’s aesthetic, framed as an appeal to the modern woman—one who embraces playful excess rather than restraint.
“We wanted to revisit that era because young women love it—the eccentric styles and dramatic volumes,” Saab explained after the show. The designer’s playful homage came with a powerful statement: the minimalist moment is over. “After all the simpler things before, now they really want pieces with new volumes, with a truly exceptional flair. As we explored volume, it really helped to give longevity to that era,” he added.
For Saab, this collection was not just a return to tradition; it was a fresh interpretation for the modern age. In fact, he admitted to drawing inspiration from Sofia Coppola’s 2006 cult classic Marie Antoinette, a film known for its playful yet extravagant portrayal of the French queen. To punctuate the reference, strains of Bow Wow Wow’s “I Want Candy”—a signature track from the movie—were woven through the show’s soundtrack, injecting a sense of pop music magic into the runway spectacle.
Fabrics of France and Old-World Craftsmanship
The materials for Saab’s collection were sourced from France, underscoring his commitment to traditional craftsmanship. Lyon lace, delicate jacquards, and other finely woven textiles were used, each chosen for its lightness and ethereal quality. In line with his masterful tailoring, Saab reworked heavy fabrics, transforming them into new, lighter versions without losing the grandeur and texture associated with haute couture.
The designer’s use of overlay and appliqué techniques created a layered effect, where delicate fabrics were combined to add drama and volume. The result was a seamless blend of airy foundations with intricate textures, transforming each piece into a work of art that captured both nostalgia and modernity.
Volume as Modern Drama
Volume took center stage in the collection, with Saab exploring dramatic shapes and exaggerated proportions. Oversized sleeves, voluminous skirts, and sweeping trains became signature elements. These looks were not only a visual statement but also a testament to the power of couture to create a truly lasting impact. Saab’s exploration of these new volumes wasn’t just about size—it was about giving each piece its own life, its own story.
Among the most striking pieces were sweeping ball gowns in pale pinks and rich pistachios, their skirts billowing out in dramatic fashion, creating a sense of opulence and grandeur. An emerald green silk gown, with a delicate yet voluminous skirt, offered a perfect balance of refinement and playfulness, while an ivory and gold bridal gown brought the collection to a sublime conclusion with its regal presence.
Conclusion
Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture collection, “The New Court,” was a bold celebration of color, volume, and craftsmanship. While it paid tribute to the historical opulence of Marie Antoinette’s era, Saab reimagined it for the modern age—infused with youthful energy and playful excess. The result was a collection that felt fresh, vibrant, and utterly contemporary, while still holding onto the timeless elegance that has made Saab a household name in haute couture.
In a season where many designers returned to minimalist tendencies, Elie Saab boldly embraced volume, color, and the exuberance of a bygone era, delivering a show that was as whimsical as it was luxurious—truly a collection fit for a queen.
