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Willie Smith
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Founder of Williwear, a pioneer in streetwear before it had a name. Merged high fashion with casual, wearable style.
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Willie Smith: The Visionary Behind WilliWear and the Godfather of Streetwear
Before the term “streetwear” ever entered the fashion lexicon, there was Willie Smith—a visionary designer whose label WilliWear helped redefine how the world viewed style. As the founder of WilliWear in 1976, Willie Smith broke down the rigid barriers between high fashion and everyday clothing, creating a revolutionary blend of comfort, culture, and sophistication that still resonates today.
The Birth of a New Fashion Language
At a time when fashion was largely dictated by elitism and exclusivity, Smith introduced a new vocabulary—one that centered on inclusivity, accessibility, and real-life wearability. His designs were a fusion of relaxed tailoring, vibrant prints, and international influences, designed to be worn by real people on real streets. Smith’s clothes didn’t just walk down runways; they danced on sidewalks, rode subways, and lived in everyday moments.
WilliWear: Fashion for the People
WilliWear wasn’t just a brand—it was a movement. With garments priced reasonably and distributed widely, Smith sought to make fashion democratic. He famously said, “People should get dressed in the morning and be able to get through the day in their clothes. I don’t believe clothes should be only for a privileged few.” That ethos positioned him as a trailblazer of modern streetwear, long before it became a billion-dollar industry.
From oversized jackets and slouchy trousers to dynamic collaborations with artists, filmmakers, and architects, Smith infused every piece with an energy that reflected urban life, creativity, and global perspectives.
Collaborations and Cultural Cross-Pollination
What set Willie Smith apart wasn’t just his design talent, but his deep commitment to multidisciplinary creativity. He collaborated with avant-garde artists like Christo and Jeanne-Claude, choreographers like Dianne McIntyre, and architects like James Wines of SITE. These partnerships weren’t just promotional—they were deeply integrated into his collections, blending fashion, art, and performance in ways rarely seen before.
His fashion shows were happenings—immersive, boundary-pushing experiences that brought together street culture, visual art, and music. Long before fashion was “content,” Willie Smith was making it cultural dialogue.
A Lasting Legacy
Though Willie Smith’s life was tragically cut short in 1987 at the age of 39 due to complications from AIDS, his influence has only grown stronger. Designers from Virgil Abloh to Jerry Lorenzo, Kerby Jean-Raymond to Telfar Clemens have cited Smith’s work as foundational. His insistence that fashion could be joyful, diverse, and relevant to everyone is echoed in the modern push for diversity, sustainability, and social awareness within the industry.
In 2020, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum honored his legacy with an exhibition titled “Willie Smith: Street Couture,” shining new light on his pioneering spirit and celebrating his impact on generations of designers and artists.
The Impact: Beyond the Runway
Willie Smith didn’t just change how people dress—he changed who fashion was for. He made space for Black creativity in a white-dominated industry, spoke to young people and everyday workers through his designs, and laid the groundwork for streetwear as a cultural force.
In many ways, Willie Smith gave us the freedom to dress how we live—with style, ease, and authenticity. In the world of fashion, where so many follow trends, Smith was a creator of movements. And though he may not be as widely known as some of his contemporaries, his influence is woven into the fabric of everything we wear today.
Willi Smith for Digits, Fall/Winter 1972 Collection, 1972
