Stephen Burrows, Woman’s Ensemble: Top and Skirt, 1971-1972, Philadelphia Museum (Link)
Stephen Burrows: A Trailblazing Force in Fashion History
Stephen Burrows is more than a fashion designer — he is a cultural icon whose work has left an indelible mark on American fashion. Rising to prominence during the 1970s, Burrows became one of the first Black designers to achieve international acclaim, celebrated for his electrifying use of color, innovative design techniques, and bold embrace of the disco era’s energy. His impact resonates not just in fashion history, but also in the ongoing narrative of diversity and representation in the industry.
The Birth of a Signature Style
Stephen Burrows’ aesthetic was born out of New York City’s vibrant nightlife, where music, movement, and style merged. He became widely known for his use of bright, clashing colors and the playful, wavy “lettuce hem” — a ruffled edge technique that would become his signature. His garments felt alive, echoing the rhythm of the clubs and the freedom of the dance floor. With stretch fabrics that hugged the body and encouraged motion, his clothes empowered women to move, express themselves, and radiate joy.
A Pioneer for Black Designers
Burrows broke barriers in a fashion world that was, and in many ways still is, predominantly white. In the early 1970s, he opened his boutique, “Stephen Burrows World,” in Henri Bendel — becoming the first African American designer with a dedicated space in a luxury department store. His presence alone was revolutionary, but his success proved that talent transcends race. His work stood side by side with established designers of the time, challenging the status quo and redefining what American fashion could look like.
Pat Cleveland and I in 1971. I absolutely adore this woman. Yes I am going through the archives. More Vintage Stephen Burrows to come.
Global Recognition at Versailles
One of Burrows’ most historic moments came in 1973, at the legendary “Battle of Versailles” fashion show in France — a landmark event that pitted American designers against French couture masters. Burrows, the youngest of the group and the only Black designer, stole the show. His designs, worn by a predominantly Black cast of models, were fresh, dynamic, and effortlessly modern, stunning the European fashion elite and solidifying his global status.
Lasting Influence
Burrows’ influence stretches far beyond the 1970s. His fearless use of color, his dedication to body-positive silhouettes, and his celebration of individuality paved the way for future generations of designers. From the early days of Studio 54 to today’s runways, his aesthetic continues to inspire.
In recent years, fashion has begun to give Burrows the recognition he deserves. Museums have honored his work, including exhibitions at The Museum at FIT and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Young designers now look to him not only as a fashion innovator, but also as a pioneer who carved a path through an industry that was not built for him — and succeeded with style, vision, and undeniable brilliance.
Stephen Burrows isn’t just a designer from the disco era — he is a testament to the power of creativity, representation, and resilience. His legacy lives on in every swirl of vibrant fabric, every confident model on the runway, and every young designer who dares to be different.
